The Metaphors of Food in China

A Chinese Philosopher Lao Tzu once said in Tao Te Ching, "Governing a great nation is much like cooking a small fish." It means that governing a country required the right "seasonings" and adjustments for successful results. This metaphor clearly illustrates the significance of food in Chinese culture. It is difficult to answer if food has the same importance in each nation. However, there is no doubt that food has great significance in Chinese. Chinese people not only passionate about food, but also develop various food metaphors in their daily life. Even though they sometimes talk loudly during dining, making a noisy impression to others, many forms of ceremony and metaphors are hided behind their dining table.

 Last Sunday is my friend Junhao’s birthday. He invited me to Golden Shanghai, which is a very famous Chinese restaurant in Denver, located at 1412 South Parker Road. Golden Shanghai is one of the most upscale Chinese restaurants I know by far in Colorado. Many of traditional Chinese landscape paintings are hanging on the hall. The decoration is inspired by the classical design. The background music is Gao Shan Liu Shui (High Mountains Flowing Water), a famous Zither Solo composed by Bo Ya before 221 BC. Altogether seven people eat with us, sharing a large turntable. I took an hour observation at Golden Shanghai to record people’s behaviors during the treat time and what I observed were very differ from people if they go Dutch.

Listened as one of ten best ancient Chinese music pieces, “High Mountains Flowing Water” was inspired by an allusion: Boya has encountered a person who understands his Zither performance and himself. Like the metaphor of the rhythm, the significance of Chinese dinner is not only means to share food with others, but means to develop your social networking, such as to promote friendly relations or to sign a business contract. Thus, you rarely see a Chinese person alone in a restaurant. It is interesting to talk about the popular ritual of Chinese people when they order dishes. Based on my observation, I find if there are only two to four Chinese dine together, each of them usually orders one or two dishes they like and then share with others. However, if someone’s treat, even if all inviters can order dishes, what they choose will depend on the types of food and the price of dishes rather than personal preferences.

There are three large turntables and twelve tables for four in Golden Shanghai. For each of the table for four, people always ordered five dishes with rice. What they ordered were home cooking in China, such as Ma Puo To Fu, Mao Style Pork, Chongqing Spicy Chicken, or Drunken Rib. However, if people were treated, I noticed that there must be fish and soup on large turntables. Whether the Sweet and Sour Fish, the most famous dish in Golden Shanghai, or the Broiled Fish With Chili, a local specialty in the South-West of China, to order fish and soup have special metaphors in Chinese traditional culture. Fish means, “Years of Brimful Happiness,” whereas soup means, “The friendship between us is long and lasting.” In many Chinese people’s eyes, a high quality and price of food show respect and attention to invitees. The key to treat is to choose a good environment along with a good menu.  

Regardless of how much beer and food dishes, the staple food, such as rice and noodles, will always be the last protagonist of Chinese people on the table. During the one-hour observation, every table had called the waiter to add rice. Because it was my friend’s birthday, we ordered a large bowl of noodles to celebrate. According to Trista Baldwin’s article, 5 Chinese eating habits explained, from CNN Travel channel, she mentions birthday noodles because “it symbolizes longevity.” She said, “Long strip of noodle is a metaphor for the long walk of life. Yet this tradition comes with an addendum: do not cut the noodles.” Based on Chinese customs and rituals, birthday celebration must eat longevity noodles due to the shape of noodles is long and thin. It is in the same pronunciation of longevity (chang shou).

            Another interesting thing I find during the one-hour observation is that food values and culture can connect to Chinese people through how they eat and drink. Instead of per person eat their own meals, Chinese are more willing to share their dishes with others. Drinking is also particular about etiquette. Chinese are used to stand up and all drink together. They would like to say blessed words before to drink, such as “Happy Birthday!” “Wish you good health!” and other discourses like that. In addition, if you cannot drink beer or wine, Trista suggests in her article that tea tapping is a must because it is a show of thanks. She states, “A tea cup should never be allowed to run dry. Your host, or members of your dinner party, will regularly refill the cups of those around them, who tap the table in response. Go ahead and follow suit.” To conclude, Food values are always connected to blessing and gratitude in China.            

Food cultures and values are directly connected to a specific community because they reflect the way people treat others in a certain community. It is also a symbol to define one community and differentiate the community from others. There is an old saying, when in Rome, do as the Romans do. This is the reason why Chinese always split the bill instead of treat others in America. This is also the reason why Americans will imitate what Chinese do, such as to use chopsticks, to share dishes, to eat rice, and to propose a toast when they visit a Chinese restaurant. Food is the best performance to do as the Romans do.

Useful Reference in SE3

1. 5 Chinese eating habits explained

http://travel.cnn.com/shanghai/eat/5-chinese-eating-habits-explained-311204

2.Tao Te Ching

http://academic.brooklyn.cuny.edu/core9/phalsall/texts/taote-v3.html